October 14, 2024, 2:32 pm | Read time: 5 minutes

Your face can tell you a lot – not just about your emotions but also about your health. Puffiness, redness, acne, or sagging skin could be caused by the stress hormone cortisol and lead to the typical “cortisol face.” On social media, more and more creators are explaining how to recognize it and what can help. STYLEBOOK asked a dermatologist what the beauty trend is really about.

What is the “cortisol face”?

Medical student and doctoral candidate Alina Walbrun shares her personal journey with “cortisol face” through an Instagram reel. In the short video, she shows a photo of herself four years ago with a much rounder face. She recounts engaging in numerous HIIT workouts, undergoing therapy for an anxiety disorder, extensive studying, and neglecting a healthy diet during that period. Now, she’s shifted to less strenuous workouts, focuses more on her routines, and has increased her fluid intake.

Other social media creators attribute symptoms like redness, acne, a lackluster complexion, tired eyes, and puffiness to high cortisol levels. They often recommend avoiding intense workouts, morning coffee, or using facial massages as a countermeasure. But do such effects actually result from high cortisol levels?

What the “stress hormone” cortisol does in the body

Firstly, cortisol has beneficial aspects and is a hormone produced in the adrenal cortex, explains Munich dermatologist Dr. Melanie Klijn to STYLEBOOK. In moderate amounts, this so-called “stress hormone” is actually essential for life. It is involved in blood pressure and metabolism, as well as the sleep-wake rhythm.

Basically, the body becomes more efficient through the release of cortisol, as the dermatologist explains. In the morning, around 30 to 40 minutes after getting up, the level is at its highest and acts as a stimulant. Over the course of the day, cortisol levels in the body then fall again and reach their lowest point in a healthy person at night. In stressful situations, however, more of the hormone is released. The body goes into alert mode, with increased blood pressure and blood sugar levels as well as a suppressed immune system. Fat, carbohydrate, and protein metabolism work harder. This is also quite normal at first.

When does a high cortisol level become a problem?

However, it becomes problematic when the adrenal glands produce more of the hormone, especially at night over a longer period of time. According to Klijn, an extremely high cortisol level could, for example, indicate a rare and serious disease: Cushing’s disease. However, this has nothing to do with the “cortisol face” of TikTok users.

Normally, the cortisol level drops again after an acute stress situation. However, long-term stress can lead to a permanently elevated cortisol level, which can lead to the symptoms commonly referred to as “cortisol face” in some people. “Studies show that elevated cortisol levels can worsen acne with more pimples and pustules as well as oily skin and can also prolong wound healing,” explains Dr. Klijn. This is because the hormone in the adrenal cortex damages the skin’s barrier function. As a result, more moisture evaporates, and the skin becomes dry and dull over time despite the initial increase in sebum production. This can lead to skin irritation, inflammation, or redness.

Cushing’s disease or “cortisol face”? According to the expert, these are the differences

Dr. Klijn emphasizes that fat deposits on the face only occur in Cushing’s disease. The disease is triggered by tumors in the adrenal gland, for example. The result is a so-called “moon face,” which is not related to a stress-related increase in cortisol levels.

Rather, the “cortisol face” is simply a puffy face, often caused by water retention. According to the expert, this can have several causes: “after salty food, alcohol, little sleep or hormones.” So, it doesn’t necessarily have to be due to the stress hormone, but it can be a cause.

These tricks offer relief for swelling or redness on the face

There are several tips on TikTok to combat the so-called “cortisol face.” Dr. Klijn notes that some of them provide short-term relief. However, the effect is manageable. A jade roller, for example, can have a cooling effect and reduce swelling on the face. Electrolyte powder can help to excrete more water. However, these tricks don’t address the root issue, which is the elevated cortisol level. “Only stress reduction can help,” the dermatologist clarifies.

In addition, suitable skin care measures should be integrated into the daily routine: Salicylic acid or AHA to reduce sebum, sufficient hydration, free radical scavengers, and retinol as the most effective substance, as well as consistent sun protection are proven methods.

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Conclusion: There is so much to the “cortisol face”

Does the “cortisol face” really exist, or is it rather a collective term for several phenomena that can occur in connection with an elevated cortisol level? Dermatologist Dr. Melanie Klijn has a clear opinion on this: “Nowadays, more and more young people are trying to conform to the ideal of beauty. If, in their opinion, they don’t, it is easier to medicalize bad skin as a self-deceptive reason”.

A temporarily elevated cortisol level is vital and a sign that the body is resisting stress. “It is usually a natural bodily function and is not a disease,” says the expert. “If you think you have a cortisol face, then take a serious look at yourself and ask yourself whether your bad skin is only due to cortisol or to the often unsound lifestyle caused by stress,” she adds.

Ensuring adequate sleep, a healthy diet low in fats and salts, and ample rest and relaxation sets the stage for well-being. Regular exercise and a consistent skincare routine customized to your skin type also contribute to a healthier complexion.