October 11, 2024, 8:51 am | Read time: 6 minutes

Soon, it will finally be “O’zapft is!” (Bavarian for “It is tapped” refers to the tradition of the tapping of the first beer barrel by the mayor of Munich) again. And to ensure that women are “o’zogn is” (dressed up) for the occasion, STYLEBOOK answers the most important questions about dirndls and the unofficial Oktoberfest dress code with advice from a traditional costume designer.

1. What does the correct dirndl look like?

Length

Women traditionally wear a dirndl to the Oktoberfest. This should reach at least to the knee (length: approx. 60 centimeters). Anything shorter is considered a mini dirndl and is intended for young girls. A dirndl in midi length (approx. 70 centimeters) flatters the figure and is suitable for all ages. However, the undisputed classic is and remains the long dirndl with a skirt length of approx. 90 cm, which is also becoming increasingly popular with young women.

Quality

Brocade and lots of bling-bling used to be very popular but are now out of fashion. Instead, dirndls made of cotton and linen are always popular, often decorated with elegant embroidery. High-quality silk also remains on-trend.

If you want a unique piece, don’t buy off the peg, but have a dirndl made to measure. Although this costs from 800 euros upwards, it can be particularly worthwhile if you also wear traditional costume for occasions other than Oktoberfest, especially as a good piece can be worn for at least ten years.

Colors

You can go wild with the colors. If you want to play it safe, choose classic traditional colors such as dark blue, dark green, and red.

Closure

It doesn’t matter whether a dirndl is buttoned, laced, or closed with a zipper. The important thing is that it fits close to the body so that the waist and bust are optimally emphasized. The straps should also sit close to the shoulders so that they also lift the chest. It is worth looking for a dirndl that fits your figure perfectly.

Petticoat

We need this so that the dirndl swings beautifully! Petticoats – whether in the same color as the dirndl or in classic black or white – have become increasingly popular in recent seasons.

2. What to look for in a dirndl blouse?

Some women prefer a sexy look and forgo the white blouse with their dirndl – a mistake! The white blouse is an essential part of the authentic Oktoberfest ensemble. The blouse is classically floral white, has puffed sleeves, and an elegant Carmen neckline, i.e., it is slightly off the shoulder. It only reaches just below the bust. However, it should not be too small, otherwise it will squeeze out the décolleté, which should of course be avoided.

Colored blouses in pastel shades, red or black, can now also be combined with dirndls. The matching bra should ideally have a balconette shape with straps placed far to the side and a low bridge. If you are planning a visit to the Oktoberfest lasting several days, you should also have several blouses to hand. It is basically a piece of underwear that is changed regularly.

3. What is the dirndl apron all about?

Of course, you can’t buy a new dirndl for every visit to the Oktoberfest. The secret trick of Munich women: work with aprons. Because a new apron can completely change the look of the same dirndl.

4. What is the significance of the dirndl bow?

Far more than just an embellishment – there is a deeper symbolism behind the apron bow!

Bow tied on the left

Left is the side for single ladies that signals: “Hi, I’m still available!” What the bow tied on the left doesn’t mean: that you’re fair game. Unfortunately, some Oktoberfest visitors seem to forget this subtle difference in an alcohol-fueled atmosphere. That’s why there are always disguised women who are not engaged and who want to celebrate in peace.

Bow tied on the right

Right means taken, regardless of whether the partner is at the festival or the woman is having fun alone.

Bow tied at the back

For a long time, the bow at the back signaled that a woman was widowed. However, waitresses also wear the bow at the back so that it doesn’t get in the way when serving.

Bow at the front in the middle

The bow at the front traditionally signifies that the wearer is still a virgin – according to the theory. In practice, however, women would probably not march around the Oktoberfest with such private information. Traditionally, the bow at the front is, therefore, mainly reserved for children. At Catholic festivities, however, it can mean that the wearer is of marriageable age and looking for a groom.

5. Are dirndls compulsory – or can women also wear lederhosen?

Yes, women can also wear Krachlederne and Janker (rolled felt jackets, usually available in muted colors and with beautiful decorations). Although both are typically male traditional costumes, they look just as good on many women. The leather trousers should fit tightly and may be shorter than the knee. Add a checked shirt and a pair of lace-up boots, and you will have a cool Oktoberfest look.

If you don’t want to invest in a jacket, go for a simple (cable-knit) cardigan or make it particularly chic with a traditional scarf. The large scarf is wrapped around the shoulders like a cape and still looks good even after the Oktoberfest.

6. What does the right footwear look like?

Ballerinas look girly; pumps with a maximum heel height of five centimeters would be the traditional choice. But lace-up boots or sneakers also go well with dirndls. In the end, the shoes should be comfortable because the Oktoberfest is spacious, and you will certainly want to dance on the benches at some point. If you’re not used to wearing high heels, it’s better not to wear them.

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7. What are the right dirndl accessories?

Traditionally, a dirndl is worn with a choker, i.e., a wide, tight-fitting velvet ribbon for the neck that is decorated with pearls or embroidery and has an ornamental centerpiece. This not only looks very elegant but also makes for a long neck.

If you dare, wear a traditional hat, either made of wool felt or straw. Nowadays, dirndls are often worn with a headband or hairband. Each dirndl also has a side pocket or a compartment under the apron to store the essentials. You can also carry a small bag to wear around your neck.

The German original of this article was published in September 2024.