November 26, 2024, 5:03 pm | Read time: 6 minutes

Uniqlo has developed from a small clothing company in Japan into a leading global fashion retailer. With its mix of innovation, functionality, and minimalist aesthetics, the brand is now a serious competitor to industry giants such as Zara and H&M. But what is behind this success? STYLEBOOK took a closer look.

Innovation and technology as a recipe for success

Uniqlo continuously invests in technological developments. One example of this is “Heattech,” an innovative fiber that stores heat without adding bulk – created through a partnership with the Japanese chemical company Toray. Other highlights include “AIRism” for breathable summer clothing, and “BlockTech,” a wind and water-repellent material for outdoor clothing. This functionality makes Uniqlo particularly attractive to fashion-conscious women who value comfort and suitability for everyday wear.

Uniqlo also collaborates with renowned designers such as Jil Sander, Clare Waight Keller, and Christophe Lemaire to enrich the range in terms of style. These collections combine high fashion with affordable prices and appeal to a broader customer base without taking the brand away from its core.

Ongoing hype around Banana Bag

Uniqlo’s “Banana Bag” also became a social media phenomenon and is one of the Japanese label’s best-selling bags. Available for just EUR 14.90, the nylon shoulder bag impresses with its amazing storage space. Users on TikTok show how they pack an unexpected amount of items into it, earning it the nickname “Mary Poppins bag.” Without prominent advertising campaigns, it became the “Millennial Birkin” through viral content.

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Expansion and new markets

While Uniqlo is already ubiquitous in Japan, the brand is increasingly focusing on international markets. Europe, in particular, offers enormous growth potential: sales per store there are now higher than in Japan itself. The company is benefiting from weaker competition from large fast-fashion providers, which are currently struggling with challenges. Its presence in Germany is also growing steadily, with nine stores to date, mainly in major cities such as Berlin and Munich.

Is Uniqlo fast fashion?

Although Uniqlo has become known for its basics and innovative materials, the brand has also been criticized. One key point concerns its classification as a fast fashion company. While the company clearly distances itself from this and focuses on longevity and timeless designs, there are aspects that reveal similarities to fast fashion.

Massive production and low prices

Uniqlo produces garments in huge quantities, often in the millions per product. Despite the focus on “lifewear” basics, many items are offered seasonally, which encourages constant consumption – a typical feature of fast fashion. Critics also criticize the fact that production mainly takes place in countries such as China, where working conditions and wages are not always transparent.

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Sustainability promises and reality

However, the company has recently increased its focus on sustainability. Initiatives such as “Re.Uniqlo” offer repair services and recycling programs to reduce the ecological footprint. Nevertheless, the brand has been accused of not disclosing enough information on supply chains and working conditions. While some collections are made from sustainable materials, the majority of the range remains conventionally produced. Experts are calling for more transparency and stricter standards.

Ethics and social responsibility

In 2015, allegations were made that Uniqlo suppliers in China were making employees work under poor conditions. Although the company has since taken measures, including a four-day week, critics still see room for improvement.

Uniqlo attacks fashion giant Shein

The company sued Shein in 2024 for allegedly imitating the popular ‘Round Mini Shoulder Bag,’ known as the ‘Mary Poppins Bag’ that was hyped on TikTok. Uniqlo demanded that the sale of the imitation be stopped and compensation paid. According to Der Spiegel, the case aligns with similar accusations against Shein: H&M had already sued the Chinese company for design copies in 2021. Shein is also often criticized for questionable working conditions and environmental practices but has experienced impressive growth thanks to aggressive marketing and a vast product range.

Criticism from online customers, according to Trustpilot

The reviews of Uniqlo on “Trustpilot” show a strongly divided picture: While some customers are enthusiastic about the product quality and fast delivery, many others are mainly harshly critical of the customer service and returns process. One positive aspect highlighted by users is the speedy delivery and processing of returns. One commentator praises the innovative and high-quality products and even accepts the partial deductions for refunds, stating, “I actually think it’s the right thing to do—for the sake of the environment.”

On the other hand, there are numerous negative voices. One major problem is the poor customer service. Users like “CP” report frustrating experiences with chatbots and unhelpful employees. Customer service is described as difficult to reach and not very solution-oriented. Returns are considered particularly problematic. One user describes the process as ‘unnecessarily complicated, almost impossible’ and complains about the lack of clear communication regarding the returns process, especially for ‘Click & Collect’ orders. Other users also criticize hidden costs. One wrote: “When it comes to refunds, you are surprised that the full purchase price is not refunded.” The fees and the effort involved seem excessive to many.

Other users criticize the slow refund process and lack of communication. The impression given is that returns are deliberately made difficult, leading some to suspect fraud, particularly when delivery issues arise.

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