April 11, 2025, 2:33 pm | Read time: 2 minutes
Self-tanning products promise a quick, convenient tan from a bottle, tube, or spray can. But how much chemistry is actually in the products that often have a particular odor? Is the summery tan from a can really safe? STYLEBOOK asked a dermatologist what you should look out for when buying and using these products.
Pale face, pasty legs — with a self-tanner, you can quickly create a hint of summer tan on your skin. But how exactly does it work, and can self-tanners be harmful to our health? “A chemical reaction occurs in the body after applying a self-tanner,” explains Dr. Alice Martin, dermatologist and co-founder of the Dermanostic tele-practice. “Self-tanners contain the carbohydrates dihydroxyacetone or erythrulose. They react with proteins in the outermost layer of our skin cells. This produces so-called melanoidins, which cause the cells to become discolored.”
Many people may be familiar with this — after applying a self-tanner, the skin on the elbows, knees, or soles of the feet often appears darker than on the rest of the body. “We have a thicker accumulation of dead skin cells in these areas, so the chemical reaction is more pronounced,” explains the dermatologist. “That’s why you should definitely exfoliate before applying a self-tanner.”
When Self-Tanners Can Be Harmful
Most self-tanners promise a tan for three to five days but do not protect against UV radiation: “You are still susceptible to sunburn during this time,” warns Dr. Alice Martin. “I also advise against wearing light-colored clothing. Strong friction can remove the upper horny cells and discolor the clothing.”
So, can I use self-tanners without worry, or could they potentially harm my skin? “In principle, all approved self-tanners are safe,” says the dermatologist. “However, they should be stored in a cool place, as the dihydroxyacetone, or DHA for short, can otherwise break down into formaldehyde, which in turn can have a carcinogenic effect.”
Anyone who is prone to allergies should pay particular attention to the ingredients when buying; Dr. Alice Martin advises: “Self-tanners have a distinctive scent, and many manufacturers attempt to mask it with added fragrances. However, these can cause irritation.”
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Are There (Real) Alternatives to Self-Tanners?
“There are alternatives, but not necessarily better ones because self-tanners are simply already very well prepared,” says the dermatologist. “One option is carrot oil. However, the skin takes on more of an orange hue rather than turning brown.” However, this can also happen to women with skin type I or II — i.e., very light skin types — when using self-tanners.